Enough with the 12-year-old food critic already. Little David Fishman has already warranted a Times article, made an appearance on The Early Show, and had his story optioned by Paramount. We thought the story would finally end there. We really hoped it would, maybe partly out of jealousy for not being discovered as a “young food critic” when we were precocious preteen foodies.
But it hasn’t ended. Fishman now merits a lengthy feature article by Alan Richma in GQ, and they have him serve as a guest critic, with Richman taking him to La Bernardin for the first time. Apparently, Eric Ripert hasn’t been charmed by the kiddy critic’s story as much as everyone else (another reason to love the Riper), and he’s said as much.
With his Le Bernardin review, Fishman probably won’t find any more love from Ripert. GQ oh-so-cleaverly titles it “Preteen Payback.” Fishman writes “A subtle taste of octopus and olive oil crept into my mouth, but I had
hoped for more zest. It needed to be pushed to the limit. I felt chef
Ripert could have put a little more effort into this dish.” Ouch. Still, elsewhere, he has nicer things to say, waxing poetic on his first course he writes “Fresh soy and luxurious oysters seem made for each other. The tuna,
sliced into thin filets, was light as a flower and delicious as a warm
summer day.” Oh to be young and well-fed and well-publicized…
[GQ.com via Grub Street]