The sudden surfeit of clam pies is only a good thing, as far as I’m concerned. Although the renowned clam pie at Frank Pepe’s in Connecticut is the best I’ve had, Otto’s version ($14) is definitely worth a try.
It’s kind of a pain in the ass to scoop the little cockles out of the shells and onto the slice yourself, but the fact that the pizza is cooked with the intact bivalves scattered on the surface means that as the cockles open in the oven, all that delicious briny clam juice runs out onto the pizza and suffuses the whole thing with clamminess. As you eat, buttery, garlicky clam juice pools on the plate; dip in the crackery crust. The cockles share the pie with slices of garlic and a generous amount of Italian parsley.