The Early Word–Kevin’s


Although I am an admitted American-brunch-denier (and now there are even more reasons to hate on brunch), for the sake of household peace, I often find myself brunching. This past weekend, we decided to try Kevin’s, a newish restaurant in Red Hook.

Kevin’s dinner menu looks promising–simple, good stuff like shrimp-corn chowder, grilled sardines, cheese ravioli from Raffetto’s, lemongrass skirt steak, and so on.

But we were there for brunch, and brunch we did. The food was nothing fancy, but it was uncommonly good. We tried the eggs Chesapeake, which is a spin on eggs Benedict, substituting crab cakes for ham, and propped on two thick slices of challah instead of English muffins. The poached eggs with smoked trout (shown above) was really delicious, mainly because the smoked trout wasn’t the thin-sliced sort you usually buy in packages; instead, it was a long, thin fillet, moist, salty and smoky. It tasted homemade. The horseradish cream on the side was a nice counterpoint.

Kevin’s serves the fetishized Stumptown Coffee, too.

277A Van Brunt Street, Brooklyn

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