Food

Pix from Bamboo Pavilion

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Glistening with red chile oil, dan dan noodles need to be vigorously stirred before devouring (click to exaggerate).

Located smack dab in the middle of a Sicilian neighborhood in Bensonhurst, Bamboo Pavilion (see our review here) is on the sharp cutting edge of Sichuan cuisine in New York. While the food can’t compete with the stalls of Flushing in sheer peppercorn-hotness, it makes up for it in nuanced splendor. With its intricate combinations of chile oil, fresh green chiles, pickled chiles, and chile flakes, the food at Bamboo Garden makes a convincing case for Sichuan being one of the subtlest and most well developed cuisines in the world. More exciting food photos below.

Vegetarians will delight in the mushrooms-only menu, of which the above features five types of wild ‘shrooms.

The cooks do amazing things with almost-raw vegetables, including a brief stir-fry of spuds and peppers that leave both still crisp and glistening with flavorful oil.

The whole-fish presentations are glorious, swimming in sauce, such as the Sichuan pickled whole fish (above) and the whole fish in hot bean sauce (below)