Under Review–Sietsema Samples Mexican-Italian-Argentinean At El Almacen; DiGregorio Goes Down the Gastropub


This week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema finds out what an Argentinean taco tastes like at El Almacen, while Sarah DiGregorio heads to the LES for some pub grub.

Bruni gives Keith McNally his dues and then some, awarding the reinvented Minetta Tavern a whopping three stars and praising it for turning out to be “the best steakhouse in the city.” But go for one of the perfectly aged steaks, says Bruni, over the “much-ballyhooed ($26) Black Label burger.”
[NY Times]

Time Out is almost as enthusiastic about what McNally has done to the Greenwich Village relic, calling the controversial Black Label the first pricey burger “worth every penny. Topped with caramelized onions on a buttered bun, it’s as tender and fatty as foie gras and as intensely flavored as an aged porterhouse.”

Adam Platt heads to Midtown to sample nouveau Viennese at Seasonal Restaurant & Weinbar. Aside from a “needlessly foamy” pea soup, his traditionalist Midwestern mother-in-law cleaned her plate, deeming the food “yummy,” while his friend, the Steak Loon, liked the white asparagus.
[NY Magazine]

Restaurant Girl falls down the rabbit hole into Vutera in Williamsburg and marvels at how Chef Molly Del Monte manages to “pull off such a crispy-skinned poussin with cremini mushrooms, and crispy spaetzle squiggles. Or how she can cook the bavette steak to a perfect medium rare… and still have time to feed the rest of the guests, all on four electric stoves.” (The kitchen has no gas.)
[NY Daily News]

Alan Richman rates the top 25 pizzas in the US, and–suspiciously–places a Chicago pie at the top of the list. The plain pie at Brooklyn’s Lucali comes in second, while Co.’s Marguerita comes in at no. 8 and Totonno’s Marguerita with pepperoni places tenth.
[GQ @]