Food

Pix from Southern Spice

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Varuthameen deposits a kingfish steak–wearing a chile on its breast like a medal of valor–in a tart tamarind gravy

Southern Spice is a new restaurant in southern Flushing that gives us a chance to sample several southern Indian cuisines, though the food mainly comes from Tamil Nadu and Andhra Pradesh. The food is tart and spicy, but only rarely contains coconut milk, and the masalas are distinctly different than those used in the Punjabi cooking familiar to lovers of Indian food all over town. And…no dosas, iddlies, or utthapams.

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The delicate garlic naan is unlike any naan you’ve ever had before.

The green tinge to nilgiri mutton kuruma is mint, but don’t brush your teeth with the gravy.

Sura puttu is mashed kingfish with black mustard seeds and curry leaves, and it comes picturesquely ensconced in a brass pot lined with banana leaves.

It wouldn’t be Hyderabadi Dhum Biriyani if it didn’t come snowed with almonds and sided with cucumber raita and a hard-boiled egg!