Things We Hate–The Endgame


Once the restaurant has sold you desserts, coffees, digestifs, and every other damn thing they can think of, it’s common for the service to abruptly fall off. Need a glass of water? Forget about it! Another napkin because yours dropped on the floor? Beyond the realm of possibility. You may find yourself setting out across the room like a jungle explorer in search of your waiter, just to get the check. Somehow, the endgame is the area of service most often neglected, and a meal that was otherwise excellent in every way can be vastly diminished as you sit disconsolately for 15 minutes among the dirty plates and smeary glasses of the final course.