This week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema delves into authentic Iraqi cuisine at La Kabbr.
Frank Bruni has a hard time getting a table at Graydon Carter’s Monkey Bar, but when he finally does, encounters “supple and sweet” lobster thermidor and “watery” linguine, earning the good-looking establishment a one spot.
Restaurant Girl loves the sausages and hot dogs at DBGB Kitchen & Bar, but doesn’t quite care for the burgers, which are “all overworked, especially the Piggie, clobbered by barbecue pulled pork, a mustard-vinegar slaw, and jalapeno mayonnaise toppings.”
[NY Daily News]
Jay Cheshes is quite taken with the pastas at Michael White’s Marea, which he deems “bold and original,” while “the composed seafood entrees show far more restraint,” even managing to be “dull.”
Ryan Sutton also found himself at Marea, which he found “a little bit silly.” He suggests, like most other reviewers, to start with the sea urchin crostini topped in pork fat, which “smells of pig and salts the urchin, the sweet, jiggly custard of the sea.”
Critical Mass Alert!
Alan Richman paid a visit to Marea, as well, where you can eat a $45 Adriatic seafood soup. He pronounces it “the best restaurant from (Chris) Cannon-(Michael) White,” though thinks it will probably never be as popular as the more traditional Convivio.
[GQ @ men.style.com]
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on July 15, 2009