Photo courtesy of Serious Eats
We’re a little late to the party on this one, but last week, Serious Eats ran a step-by-step on how Michael White creates his fusilli with octopus and bone marrow, a post so detailed and gorgeously shot that reading it is almost as good as eating the dish–and if you’re ambitious, makes it possible to cook an approximation of the dish at home.
The nubbins of octopus and marrow–the former briny, chewy, and mild; the latter squishy, bovine, and fatty–combine with a long-simmered tomato sauce and homemade fusilli. At $25, it’s not cheap, but it would be worth it to go sit down at Marea, have a glass of tap water and that plate of pasta, and nothing else. In the Serious Eats post, we learn why the dish works so well texturally:
If the gelatin from the octopus didn’t bind to the liquefied marrow, the marrow would simply float to the top of the sauce. Instead, the two ingredients complement each other on a molecular level, allowing the sauce to be realized.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on July 20, 2009