At the Hong Kong Supermarket on Hester Street, this package recommends itself, the enthusiastic pig on the front seeming to give you a thumbs-up. Maybe it’s a pack of delicious sweet and spicy jerky? On closer inspection, the pig is actually flashing you the loser sign, and he’s missing his pants. And rather than peddling his own piggy flesh, the pig is offering you a shrink-wrapped bag of something gray-ish, which turns out to be pressed tofu. The slices slide out easily, their surfaces lubricated and slimy. It’s not the best tofu you’ve ever had, but some might enjoy the nutty taste and convenient packaging. Meanwhile, pig, get some pants.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on July 21, 2009