Bruni found himself wishing for the “opulence” of A Voce dishes, yet still awards Locanda Verde a two-spot, surmising that, despite there “hardly [being] a false step among the cicchetti and antipasti,” Andrew Carmellini hasn’t yet hit his stride.
Restaurant Girl slurps the sea at Marea, where the $45 brodetto is the best bowl of soup she’s had in years. Like other reviewers, she recommends the lardo crostini with sea urchin, and also gives a shout out to the spaghetti with garlic, crab, sea urchin, and oven-dried tomatoes.
[NY Daily News]
Jay Cheshes is a fan of Portuguese-influenced Aldea, where George Mendes “has a line on some exceptional seafood,” “goat… is treated like the difficult meat that it is, with individual cuts from a whole broken-down beast cooked on their own,” and “duck too gets its due.”
Ryan Sutton indulges in the “fourth meal” at DBGB, where he endorses the many sausage varieties: “blood sausage — soft and creamy, with meaty chunks of pig’s head over a pile of mashed potatoes,” or “Spanish chorizo… crumbly meat oozing smoky oil.”
Alan Richman also gets his sausage on at DBGB, but his favorite is the Beaujolaise “because it offered maximum beefiness and sat atop lentils.” He also vouches for the matzoh ball soup–“perfect broth, and matzoh balls so silken no Jewish housewife… could have made them.”
[GQ @ men.style.com]
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on July 22, 2009