I long ago learned that Southern cooks will make a sandwich out of just about anything. In New Orleans, the original po’ boy was a baguette loaded down with french fries, and here in Harlem and Bed-Stuy, you can still get a sandwich made of sliced bread with pork ribs or pieces of bony chicken as the filling. How do you eat the sandwich, then, you ask?
Well, you can bite down on the sandwich, and try to pull some flesh off the bone, while not actually biting down on the bone, treating the bread slices as an extra layer of loose breading. But the “sandwich” is even better if you treat the bread as an edible napkin: Pick up the chicken or ribs separately and eat them in the normal way, then down the bread as a flavorful second course, soaked with sweet sauce and natural juices. Think of it as a deconstructed sandwich.
Which is just what I did with the exemplary pork rib sandwich at Harlem newcomer Doc’s. Four moist and voluminous ribs are part of the deal, plus a length of baguette and french fries, making a gut bomb extraordinaire. And, at only $6.25, an extraordinary deal. But you’re have to get your veggies elsewhere. 1902 Adam Clayton Powell Boulevard (Seventh Avenue), 212-222-8820
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on July 27, 2009