Last year, Frank’s Meat Market closed down in the Chelsea Market, leaving the food mall meatless. Now, a new meat market is promised, called Dickson’s Farmstand Meats. Not sure what “farmstand” means in this context, but the intention of this new business is to sell boutique-quality meats from local sustainable farms. Here’s a quote from their handbill: “We offer grass fed/grass finished, organic, heritage breed and more traditional meat products–always feed-lot free and raised without added hormones, the use of prophylactic antibiotics or animal by-products.” They’ve clearly given themselves a little wiggle-room in their statement of purpose.
Though the new store won’t open until Fall, for the last few weeks there’s been a counter and cold case set up in front of the space from 11 a.m. till 7 p.m. Saturday and Sunday only. Fork in the Road decided to road-test one of the cuts, and selected a well-marbled pair of very large beef short ribs, costing around $15 (for 1.52 lbs.) and unspeakably gorgeous, to a meat lover, at least. According to the tag, they originated at Herondale Farm in Ancramdale, New York. Kind of nice to see where your meat came from, and verdant pictures on the website show well-spaced and well-fed cattle in pasteurage.
A friend was having a barbecue the next day, so I rubbed the ribs with an even mixture of sea salt, paprika, and freshly ground black pepper. I put them directly over a hot fire in the Weber, and seared the heck out of them till they had blackened strips on all sides. Then I banked up the fire on one side of the smoker, and put the ribs on the other side, and then put the lid on, adjusting the flue so that the fire burned slow and warm.
After three hours, the ribs were ready, and I sliced them parallel to the bone and sprinkled the smoky meat with more sea salt. They were exquisite, and I couldn’t have hoped for more fat. I’m ready to go back to Dickson’s.
75 Ninth Avenue