Under Review: Sietsema at a Handful of New Thais in Queens


This week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema checks out four new Thai restaurants in Woodside and Astoria, and will definitely be going back to two of them.

Bruni’s second-to-last review is a glowing ode to Eleven Madison Park, to which he awards four stars, after raising his rating from two to three stars in 2007. “I fell in love gradually, not all at once,” raves the critic. “The experience had a sweetness all its own.”
[NY Times]

Restaurant Girl liked the scene and the lamb chops at The Standard Grill, but the burger was “not great,” and the New York strip was “so unevenly cooked… it had to make a round trip right back to the kitchen.”
[NY Daily News]

Steve Cuozzo is more enthusiastic about The Standard Grill, deeming it “the right eatery at the right time — a fully realized, Modern American place amid a zoo of forward Italian, neo-Japanese, fancy steak, almost-French and wannabe Mexican joints.”
[NY Post]

Jay Cheshes has kind words for Aureole, where “(Chris) Lee’s complex food strikes a fine balance between the big-ticket opulence of the original Aureole and the more homespun inclinations of a new generation of American chefs.”

Alan Richman gets a chicken reservation at Momofuku Noodle Bar, where $100 gets you “two towering plates of chicken parts, warm moo shu pancakes, four sauces… and a large wooden bowl stuffed with vegetables.”
[GQ @]

Ryan Sutton vets Sho Shaun Hergatt, where he feels “Hergatt needs to simplify.” He will, however, be going back for the black bass.

This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on August 12, 2009


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