“Call me persnickety, but someone needs to take a stand here: ‘Heirloom’ is not synonymous with ‘good’… The lumpy, imperfect fruit had become a kind of mascot for the good-food movement that is against industrial agriculture’s embrace of pesticides, against the development of genetically modified foods, in favor of preserving small farms and in support of local and seasonal food… But hybrids, after all, are the result of plant breeding, a technology as old as farming itself.”
Over at Serious Eats, the revolt is against all tomatoes. It uncovered Tomatoesareevil.com, a website “dedicated to the belief that the humble tomato fruit is in fact EVIL.” The site has a game that lets you kill tomatoes, a collection of evil tomato facts, and anti-tomato news updates. Anyone else find this movement perplexing? Fork in the Road may hate a lot of things. But tomatoes ain’t one of them.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on August 14, 2009