Steak Laos at Thai Pavilion is an exercise in upscaling fusion, pretty to look at and tasty, too, but lacking a certain zing.
Last week Counter Culture assayed a quartet of unfamiliar Thai restaurants located somewhat off the beaten path in Astoria and Woodside. While some extended our understanding of food from Isaan and Chiang Mai, others reproduced the diverse urban cuisine of the capital, which has had some Japanese dishes interpolated within the last few years. Every restaurant we visited had some worthwhile dishes. However, we ended up favoring two of the places, both relative newcomers: Thailand’s Center Point and Rumphool.
Pork “pick king” at Arharn, flavored with shredded lemongrass, tasted positively Laotian.
We loved the “crispy fried whole fish with basil sauce” at Thailand’s Center Point.
Nothing better than the classic pig leg over rice, offered with a boat of sweet chile sauce at Thailand’s Center Point.
Duck leg with garlic sauce constitutes one of Rumphool’s specialties.
Finally, Rumphool’s pork larb is far more fiery and flavorful than its pale demeanor would suggest.