The only problem with brunch at Fatty Crab is that it’s expensive. (Around $16 per plate.) Other than that, it’s pretty much perfect. Southeast Asians really know how to breakfast.
Nasi Lemak is coconutty rice served with a variety of accompaniments, usually including dried anchovies, and spicy sambal. Fatty Crab’s version comes with a nice pile of the dried anchovies, salt-and-pepper fried chicken wings, peanuts, coconut shreds, cucumber, sprouts, and a barely cooked egg jiggling on top of the rice. We broke the yolk into the rice, and mixed everything together. (Ask for extra sambal on the side! It’s the dark, savory, belacan-based sort, and it’s extremely delicious.) All together, it’s rich and spicy, and salty-fishy in a good way. Beats waffles any day of the week.
Singaporean/Malaysian style oyster omelet also makes a good brunching dish. It doesn’t much resemble a Western omelet, as it’s made from eggs mixed with tapioca and rice flour, along with a bunch of small oysters. The mixture is fried into a bubbly pancake, and topped with scallions, cilantro and hot sauce. Fatty Crab’s isn’t the best we’ve had (especially for $17) but it was still awfully good. It could have used more oysters, but what else is new?
643 Hudson St, New York
2170 Broadway, New York
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on August 24, 2009