The good folks at the Feed have penned a rejoinder to the news that, yes, Momofuku will make your wedding cake, but no, they won’t do frosting or fondant, and no, they sure as hell won’t cover the sides. The Feed notes that this particular offering is of a piece with other features of Momo’s brand of hospitality: “…the doggie-race online resy system for humble fried chicken, ass-numbing stools on which to savor fine dining and Russian-doll-style recipes that contains seven recipes within…” The Feed isn’t disposed to think of the Momo cake as a po-mo take on traditional wedding cake; rather, “Momofuku just doesn’t think you’re worth the crumb coating.”
Having done time in a wedding cake studio, one-fourth of Fork in the Road is inclined to agree with The Feed’s verdict. While fondant is, inarguably, a nasty abomination, and frosting is too often applied with the subtlety of a drag queen’s mascara wand, $350 should at least buy you something that looks like it wasn’t abandoned halfway through its creation. The cake, like most of the cakes Fork in the Road has hoovered up at the Milk Bar, is undoubtedly a tasty one. But its decor isn’t doing it any favors: It looks like the edible equivalent of a plucked chicken, naked and slightly embarrassed. Or perhaps a better comparison is to a certain emperor, naked and without a care in the world.