Food

Pix From Cowgirl Sea-Horse

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A plastic sailfish swims on the wall of the new Cowgirl Sea-Horse, second in a succession of Cowgirls that began in the West Village, treating our neighborhoods like trailer parks–culinarily, that is. Photo taken with the patented (though not by us) Fork-in-the Road low-light steadicam.

Counter Culture swan dives into Cowgirl Sea-Horse this week, and finds that there’s really not much seafood on the menu. However, about 70 percent of the menu verges on the wonderful, but only if you crave starchy greasy stuff. Come with us now on our visual version of the review.

The Prudhommean roux-spun shrimp gumbo is one of the finest things on the menu.

Skip the burger–unless they’ve learned to cook it just the way you want it between now and then.

It’s a big thumbs up for “chicken-fried chicken” with gravy, and lumpy mashed potatoes with more of that halcyon gravy. I can’t remember what the thing on the side is.
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The recipe reverently borrowed from Sugar Reef is coconut shrimp, and it’s irresistible.

Avoid the fat, gluey crabcake mounted on a bun. The bun’s not bad.

My crew one evening included Natasha Novick, Ron Kuby, and Scott “Scooter” Pellegrino.

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