Julia Moskin samples shojin ryori, or “devotion cuisine,” at Kajitsu, where “vegetables… are twisted and turned, salted and seasoned, spun and cut and carved into jewels.”
Meanwhile, Betsy Andrews eats veggies that are “fattening and good,” like “garlicky summer squash and mushroom-rich green bean with slivered almonds” at Brooklyn Star.
Gael Greene and her French friends are impressed with the “head cheese and rabbit that is moist and full of flavor in a tangy nest of green olive and preserved lemon” at Bar Luna.
Jay Cheshes goes dining — or is it clubbing? — at five restaurants that are “blurring the boundaries between places to party and places to eat.”
Mike Peed performs an “equation of net health gains” at Marea: “fish oil versus methylmercury, unsaturated fatty acids versus butter and lard.”
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on September 2, 2009