Under Review: Sietsema at Joseph Leonard; DiGregorio at Mari Vanna


This week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema falls for Frenchy Joseph Leonard, while Sarah DiGregorio suffers the service at would-be private club Mari Vanna.

Betsy Andrews explores the culinary offerings of Staten Island, which may not be reachable by subway but “given the inexpensive tabs, you can afford the Zipcar and bridge toll” to get there.
[NY Times]

Adam Platt visits DBGB, where the sausages are “excellent,” the entrees not groundbreaking, and despite the heavy offerings, “it’s possible to eat like a dainty uptown Frenchman.”
[NY Magazine]

Ryan Sutton opines that The Standard Grill “approaches Keith McNally’s Pastis and Balthazar as one of the city’s better all-day hangouts for glamorous, if not complete, gustatory bliss.”

Alan Richman tracks down Michael Bao Huynh, sampling the food at BarBao (“you don’t get much in the way of service”) and Pho Sure (“inexpensive, portions generous”) along the way.
[GQ @]

Jay Cheshes heads to Prime Meats, where “meat is, needless to say, the restaurant’s marquee draw — the dry-aged Creekstone Farms steaks have great, funky flavor and a beautiful char.”

Shauna Lyon notes that, at Locanda Verde, “Andrew Carmellini’s blissfully homey Italian food serves as a reminder that cooking what you grow is a very old, and very good, idea.”
[New Yorker]