Under Review: Sietsema at Golden Palace


This week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema discovers the shocking flavors of the Chinese province of Shandong at Golden Palace.

Pete Wells is unimpressed with Gus and Gabriel, crediting Michael Psilakis with having “perfected a new technology that magically strips out all the taste” from his burger.
[NY Times]

Adam Platt largely approves of The Standard Grill, comparing Dan Silverman to “the city’s great brasserie genius, Keith McNally… for making everything on his menu sound good.”
[NY Magazine]

Jay Cheshes is disappointed in Civetta, “the soulless sophomore venture that… squanders all the goodwill the Suhanoskys (of Sfoglia on the Upper East Side) had banked.”

Alan Richman returns to Asiate and deems it not “a bad restaurant. In some ways it’s excellent. But somehow it always manages to disappoint.”
[GQ @]

Gael Greene isn’t convinced Peruvian is set to be the next hot cuisine, but for those who feel it is, the new Pio Pio “could not be more Peruvian.”
[Insatiable Critic]