Not only has Fort Defiance re-opened after its battle with the DOH, but, beginning tonight, it’s serving dinner. According to its chef, Sam Filloramo, the menu will be small and change frequently, thanks in part to the restaurant’s tight quarters and lack of storage space. “We do a lot of shopping the day of or the day before,” Filloramo says. “Tonight, we’re starting really small.”
But while his menu may be brief, it’s not lacking in details: this evening, look for grilled toast piled with sauteed wild mushrooms with a hint of cream and herbs, and topped with Filloramo’s “five and a half minute egg”; steamed littleneck clams with wine, pancetta, thyme, and shallots; and brined, bone-in pork chops roasted with mashed potatoes and a sage pan gravy. For dessert, there’s almond brittle with Greek yogurt, black mission figs and honey.
Future dinner menus, Filloramo says, won’t have “more than five appetizers at a time, two to three entrees, and two to three desserts.” There will always be a salad (much of Fort Defiance’s produce comes from Red Hook’s Added Value farm), as well as bar snacks like roasted pimenton cashews, marinated olives, and Island Creek oysters on the half shell. In other words, get set to taste the spoils of culinary victory.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on September 23, 2009