Under Review: Sietsema at The Island of Taiwan Restaurant; DiGregorio at Bia Garden


This week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema unearths authentic Taiwanese in Bay Ridge, of all places, at the lavishly named Island of Taiwan Restaurant; while Sarah DiGregorio makes a small mess of her meal at Bia Garden.

Pete Wells finds that The Standard Grill is “full of small oddities,” but still manages to, “against the odds, add up to a worthwhile restaurant.”
[NY Times]

Ryan Sutton is unimpressed with the relocated Aureole, where “[Chef] Christopher Lee takes excellent ingredients and manipulates the flavor out of them.”

Adam Platt finds himself in a “gastronomic galaxy far, far away” at SHO Shaun Hergatt, where “everything feels stuffy and slightly passe,” but “this is not such a bad thing.”
[NY Magazine]

Jay Cheshes discovers “serious food” at Allen & Delancey, where Ryan Skeen “likes to play with extremes of temperature and texture… without resorting to molecular trickery.”

Gael Greene never went to Florent, but at Gansevoort Cafe 69, which has taken over the space, she urges “a little thought go into the erratic pricing.”
[Insatiable Critic]

Alan Richman likes the hot dogs at Bark Hot Dogs, where the dogs boast a “terrific snap to the casing,” but they won’t completely convert him from dirty-water dogs.
[GQ @]