The pickled ‘shrooms at Kebeer are meaty and amazing–without containing any actual meat.
It seem like the Russians will pickle anything. In this case, to spectacular effect. Oyster mushrooms and shiitakes are extensively vinegar-soaked and strewn with fresh dill and sweet onions at Kebeer, a new Russian beer garden under the Q tracks in Brighton Beach. The mushrooms are thereby rendered especially chewy and succulent, providing a good tart smack to the face that only foamy beer can cut. 1003 Brighton Beach Avenue, Brooklyn, 718-934-9005
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on October 1, 2009
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