New to Williamsburg is a Turkish sandwich joint called Doner, which is the Turkish term for schwarma- or gyro-like kebabs, meats mounted on upright rotary roasters. The small cafe near the Bedford Avenue stop on the L boasts two types of doner twirling in the window. The lamb variety is a semi-homogenous compounded meat, and it’s good in a rubbery and oniony sort of way. The chicken is far better, made of fragments of chicken, dark and light, glued together with fat and spices. It’s actually a little bit hot, and the subtle taste of cumin suffuses the poultry flavors.
Either meat, or a combination, can be had in a pita with garlic yogurt, tomatoes, lettuce, and raw onions, for the bargain price of $5. The salad stuff gets piled on top, so the picture below does not accurately reflect the proportion of meat, which is somewhere around 85 percent. Turks tend to be very generous with the doner.
The place also features many vegetarian appetizers, including stewed baby okra, celery root salad, stuffed grape leaves, eggy zucchini pancakes, and baked eggplant. Doner is open till 11 p.m. seven days. 189 Bedford Avenue, Brooklyn, 718-218-7900
Twin doner cylinders spin in the window of Doner, lamb (left) and chicken (right).
The sumptuous chicken doner kebab sandwich–$5..
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on October 5, 2009