If our childhood church had jettisoned the brownies in favor of cephalopods and booze, we might have stayed in the fold. The good people at Kimisis Theotokou Greek Orthodox Church on 18th Avenue in Brooklyn know how to throw a benefit–this weekend, the church’s parking lot hosted a lively Greek food festival. There was a stand where an older woman fried batches of loukoumades–Greek doughnuts–and then doused them in honey, and tables groaning with industrial-sized trays of homemade moussaka. But we made our way over to the grill, where several meaty guys presided over a big bowl of fat, purplish octopus tentacles, which they charred on the grill, hacked into bite-sized pieces, then carefully seasoned with lemon juice and oregano. Served with a cold bottle of licorice-y ouzo, it was enough to make you believe.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on October 19, 2009