A good shave is . . . exhilarating, but surprisingly hard to find. Most barber shops don’t perform them, and for good reason: They rarely make sense economically, unless a shop can be assured of the kind of return business you find at Barber Shop (yes, that’s the full name). The Russian trio of Yosef, Ross, and Albert are master craftsmen, poised and never in any rush. (A flat-screen TV pacifies the waiting.) There are plenty of hot and cold towels to go around, and Noxzema is never used. After a 20-minute job, Ross and Albert conclude matters with a quick, but very effective, facial massage (sorry, they don’t do earlobes. That’s another story). The trio and Len (who manages the place) also give pretty good haircuts ($12; crew cuts $10), too, relying on scissors to do their work. Just a shave? $12. In the end, you exit a changed man. Something is different. You want the world to know.