These rice noodle rolls are called chee cheong fun in Cantonese, which translates as “pig’s intestine noodle,” a visual comparison that requires some imagination. At many dim sum houses, you find the starchy roll-ups filled with shrimp, fried cruller, or pork, served hot and steamy, drenched in dark soy. At Canal Bakery and Cafe, they sit piled on a tray at room temperature, rolled tightly for ease of eating out-of-hand, filled with scallions, sesame seeds, and very salty ground pork. Fork over 70 cents per roll, and the stern counterwoman will stick your noodles in a wax paper bag. They’re chewy and satisfying, breakfast of frugal champions.
242 Canal Street, 212-343-2505
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on October 27, 2009