Sam Sifton drops in on Le Relais de Venise l’Entrecote, where there is “no real menu to speak of. There is only salad and steak frites… And you know what? It’s terrific.”
Ryan Sutton finds that Manhattan’s Blue Hill doesn’t measure up to the Stone Hill location just north of the city: “Every course at Stone Barns is described in detail. But waiters at the New York location don’t offer much usable information upon the dish’s presentation.”
Jay Cheshes deems the dishes at Ed’s Chowder House “worth making a trip for, (but) the restaurant is less destination, more pre- or postshow convenience.”
Steve Cuozzo is more enthusiastic, noting that Ed’s Chowder House “makes the work of seafood wizard Ed Brown available at prices more reasonable than ever before.”
Alan Richman may be a Northerner, he swears that the fried chicken at Charles’ Country Pan Fried Chicken is something “that any cook could crow about.”
Gael Greene was never a fan of Lever House, but likes the softer, warmer Casa Lever and its “stylishly arranged” food.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on November 4, 2009