Northern Spy Food Co. Has Opened Its Artisanally Inspired Doors


Painstakingly curated food shops selling market-driven vittles and a steadfastly American artisanal aesthetic are a phenomenon that has been thus far restricted largely to certain neighborhoods in Brooklyn. Until about one hour ago, that is. That’s when the Northern Spy Food Co. opened its doors in the East Village. Occupying the former Old Devil Moon space at 511 East 12th Street, the restaurant cum new-wave general store is serving simple, seasonally correct salads, sandwiches, and small plates, and has stocked its shelves with wares from Mother-in-Law’s Kimchi, Brooklyn Brine, and Liddabit Sweets, among others. Although its chefs hail from San Francisco’s A16 (also the former stomping grounds of Pulino’s Nate Appleman), Northern Spy seems like something that sprung fully formed from the loins that birthed Marlow & Sons, Bedford Cheese Shop, and Bklyn Larder. It’ll be interesting to see how the East Village welcomes its new neighbor, though an educated guess says it’ll most likely be with an open mouth.