This week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema struts on down to former discotheque Abe & Arthur’s, where despite “some painfully stupid starters… you’d do well to make a meal of apps,” while Sarah DiGregorio suffers the sound system at Laut, which manages to nail iconic versions of laksa, the noodle soup that’s considered the national dish of Malaysia.
Sam Sifton deems the food at Aureole “meh,” adding that it’s more Vegas than New York: “Everything on the table fits into a diagram of sweet, sour, less sweet, unspicy, plain.”
Adam Platt finds “the real revelation at the new A Voce [to be] the cooking… (Chef Missy) Robbins has a knack for taking simple Italian basics and elevating them to a different plane.”
Jay Cheshes approves of San Domenico’s reincarnation as SD26: “Chef Odette Fada, who had been at San Domenico since 1996, has adapted her cooking considerably for the new space. The menu is split not into courses but food groups… [permitting] diners to eat as they please.”
Meanwhile, Gael Greene gets excited about the digital wine menu at SD26, and proceeds to pair dishes with truffles shaved directly onto the plate for $8 per gram.
Alan Richman pronounces SD26 “either convoluted/newfangled or fresh/contemporary, depending on your sensibility — or maybe your age.”
[GQ/Forked & Corked]
Finally, Ryan Sutton muses over his truffle-sprinkled meals at A Voce Columbus and SD26: “My white truffles were incredible at A Voce; they were forgettable at SD26.”
Tables for Two gets seated at Prime Meats, where “if there’s a weak link, it’s the food… The Franks (owners Castronovo and Falcinelli) seem so absorbed in the quest for unusual or local ingredients that they’ve overlooked the transformative potential of actually cooking things.”