This week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema marvels at the German and Korean influences at M & T Restaurant, a new Quingdao in Flushing.
Sam Sifton knocks a star off the reinvented Oceana, deeming the new version to be “a high-functioning luxury mill… a very good restaurant. But… not entirely a pleasant one.” [NY Times]
Adam Platt is in agreement about Oceana 2.0, musing, “Will this slightly uneven food translate into Michelin stars? Possibly not. But stars are less important than profits.”
Steve Cuozzo approves of A Voce Columbus, where Chef Missy Robbins “brings rare, exacting discipline to every dish” with a “style [that] celebrates sensuous mouth-feel.”
Jay Cheshes drops in on opulent, clubby Travertine, where the “service is attentive, if a bit overzealous,” and while the “food’s pretty simple, presentations are intricate.”
Tables for Two has mixed feelings about Quinto Quarto: the “atmospheric space” is excellent. “The pizza-delivery guy who shows up with two large pies for the staff” not.
Gael Greene found Tanuki Tavern “wildly noisy,” but felt “quite at home… sharing small plates and handsome big bowls, loving the soba noodles in wasabi broth.”
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on November 18, 2009