Food

Pix from Ovelia, a Modern Greek Restaurant in Astoria

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The nearly unpronounceable kolokithokeftedes are fried zucchini patties served with an ouzo-laced tomato dipping sauce.

This week, Counter Culture triremes into Ovelia, a modernistic boite in Astoria that retains its ancient outlook. The portions are generous, the tariff light. Anything that comes with skordalia–the garlicky Greek potato dip–is fab, including grilled sand shark, zucchini fritters, and grilled eggplant. Stick with the traditional Greek dishes (including a wonderful homemade sausage called loukanika), and you’ll have a great meal.

For lovers of lots of meat in lumps, there’s Ovelia piklia, including sweetbreads and veal liver.

Served with a shitload of excellent fries, the moussaka is a tuck-in of major proportions.

A well-executed Greek salad is a gastronomic thing of beauty.

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A chorus line of squab, nicely charred from the grill.

Shark! Shark! Shark! Served with skordalia.

The exterior of Ovelia, umbrellas furled, as winter approaches.