Food

The Bill’s Burger Backlash Becomes More Deeply Entrenched: Sam Sifton Joins In

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Following the lead of Our Man Sietsema and Alan Richman, Sam Sifton has passed some deeply unimpressed judgment on Bill’s Burger.

“The burger is amazingly both crusty and underdone, underseasoned; it soaks its supermarket bun into a pulpy submission,” the Times critic writes. “It has no flavor. It is deeply uninteresting.” Are the emperor’s clothes coming off, or has the shifting wave of expectations simply crested?