The Bill’s Burger Backlash Becomes More Deeply Entrenched: Sam Sifton Joins In


Following the lead of Our Man Sietsema and Alan Richman, Sam Sifton has passed some deeply unimpressed judgment on Bill’s Burger.

“The burger is amazingly both crusty and underdone, underseasoned; it soaks its supermarket bun into a pulpy submission,” the Times critic writes. “It has no flavor. It is deeply uninteresting.” Are the emperor’s clothes coming off, or has the shifting wave of expectations simply crested?