This week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema follows the call of the best fries in town to Greek grillmaster Ovelia Psistaria, while Sarah DiGregorio delves into the different flavors of Mexicana at Los Feliz & Dos Toros.
Sam Sifton approves of A Voce Columbus, despite it being “a corporate enterprise, part of a master plan… to build a jig… that could yield more A Voces in other cities.”
Adam Platt finds that “consistency is an issue” at SD26. And, despite “earsplitting decibel levels” at Abe & Arthur’s, the kitchen turns out “a very competent rendition” of several dishes.
Meanwhile, Jay Cheshes deems that “the food is as extraneous as the soundtrack” at Abe & Arthur’s, which is frequented by “cougars,” “fat cats,” and “aging scenesters.”
Gael Greene suspects that Le Caprice, like its London counterpart, is “more about scene — and being seen — than food.” Several disappointing dishes confirm it.
Ryan Sutton is reminded of “how overindulgent and all-inclusive tasting menus can overwhelm diners used to today’s stripped-down restaurants” at Bouley.
Table for Two gets a table smack in the middle of Times Square at Aureole, where “besides being sweet, the dishes can be awfully busy.”