When the Northern Spy Food Co. opened in early November, it brought a helping of San Francisco name recognition (chefs Christophe Hill and Nathan Foot cooked at A16 and Myth, respectively) and promises of rustic, market-driven grub to the former Old Devil Moon space. While a sizable percentage of that grub caters to more carnivorous appetites, Northern Spy’s menu does cede a bit of territory to vegetarians. Case in point is the mushroom sandwich.
Built on a foundation of satisfyingly crusty baguette and served alongside a pickle and clump of pickled onions, the sandwich is endowed with a mix of sauteed oyster and maitake mushrooms, shredded farmhouse cheddar, mizuna, and pinky-sized slices of poached fingerling potatoes. The combination of flavors is earthy and robust, and the salty, pungent cheese and slightly bitter mizuna complement the lo-fi funk of the mushrooms. While the potatoes don’t really do much flavor-wise, they provide added textural dimension, and help to make this a sandwich substantial enough to negate the hunger pangs of vegetarians and wayward carnivores alike.
Northern Spy Food Co.
511 East 12th Street
More:Vegetarian and Vegan