Food

An Early Look at Patty and Bun’s Havoc Burger

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Newly opened Patty and Bun (or P&B) is, by our count, the fourth burger joint on the stretch of 8th Street between Broadway and Sixth, and the most ambitious, not that that’s saying an awful lot. The burgers are of the fat, steakhouse style, impossible to get your mouth around, and come in regular, cheeseburger, lamb, turkey and wild salmon iterations. Freestyle burgers include a “caddy” burger, topped with braised duck and shitakes, and the havoc burger, shown here.

The havoc burger is made of a lamb, beef, and pork mix, served with pickled red cabbage, verdant chimichurri, and something called “havoc sauce,” a nondescript creamy solution.

The patty is about 3/4-inch thick, and oozes juice. We ordered it medium-rare, which, in retrospect, may have been a mistake, as it arrived a very true medium rare, cool and raw through the middle–an enjoyable state for ground beef and lamb, but not for ground pork, which added an unpleasant pink, clotted-ness. The tangy parsley-flecked chimichurri and pickled red cabbage added welcome acid and crunch to the drippy bundle, encased in a very fine, crackly-skinned bun. The combination of flavors and textures generally add up to an enjoyable, unorthodox burger, but next time we’d order it medium.

At lunch, the havoc burger is $10, at dinner $12.

61 West 8th Street
212-477-1850

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