While I was working on the review of Lan Sheng, a new Sichuan spot on 39th Street, the restaurant become unexpectedly embroiled in a labor dispute, which may or may not actually concern it. Read the whole story in my column this week. But about the food, there is no debate–it’s good, and occasionally great. Above, the classic dan dan noodles ($5.50), chewy and tingly.
Rabbit fillet with millet ($16) does not seem to actually contain any of the grain. Instead, it’s basically cold, pickled bunny, topped with a ton of pickled chiles.
Delicate, pork-filled Chengdu wantons ($5.50) are sprinkled with ground Sichuan peppercorns, and slippery in a chile-oil bath.
Cold sliced conch ($9.95), agreeably crunchy, is dyed pink with chile vinaigrette, and served with a bale of scallions.