Food

Pix From Sonali Cuisine in Sunnyside, Queens

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The front window proclaims Sonali Cuisine’s newbie status.

This week Counter Culture sets down in a virtual culinary Bangladesh at Sonali Cuisine. The food is rich, savory, and really cheap, and offers several dishes that distinguish it from other Bangladeshi restaurants in Queens. In addition, it offers a selection of freshwater fish imported from Bangladesh. The dining room rivals an operating amphitheater in brightness, but who cares when the food is this good.

The pink, strongly flavored fish called ruhu comes coated with a thick gravy.

Deshis are particularly fond of okra, as in this herbal rendition of bindi masala.

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A trio of fragrant curries.

The aloo paratha is particularly satisfying at Sonali Cuisine.

The goat biryani is a flashy and festive dish, descended from Arab pilafs.

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Piaji bhaji may sound like an expensive designer watch, but it looks like deep-fried tarantulas.

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