Even those of us who generally object to brunch (long waits, mediocre eggs) are occasionally obliged to participate in the weekend ritual, and when we do, the food had better be good. This Sunday afternoon, Brooklyn Star warmed us up with its wood-burning oven and a satisfying bowl of shrimp and grits.
Joaquin Baca, a South Texas native who worked under David Chang for years, opened his own Southern spot in Williamsburg last year, making use of a built-in wood-burning oven for barbecue, cornbread cooked in cast-iron skillets, and buttermilk biscuits.
The shrimp and grits ($11) is fairly restrained as the dish goes, composed of a shallow puddle of white corn grits, grilled gulf shrimp, two sunny-side up eggs, and a smattering of bacon. Pierce the egg so that the yolk runs off to enrich the grits.
Other good things on Brooklyn Star’s brunch menu include the biscuits and the masa cakes ($10) with chorizo and black beans, topped with poached eggs. The restaurant opens for brunch at noon on weekends–get there early if you don’t want to wait in the cold.
33 Havemeyer Street, Brooklyn