This week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema meets with the Organ Meat Society at Flushing’s Northeast Taste Chinese Food for the Dongbei take on kidneys, pig heart, and sweet and sour lamb liver; while Sarah DiGregorio explores the “most underappreciated of cooking methods” at Golden Steamer, and the art of the gua bao at Baohaus.
Sam Sifton finds Maialino praiseworthy, awarding it two stars for, among other things, its pig, which comes “roasted, braised, fried” and is “at the heart of the menu.”
Meanwhile, Steve Cuozzo notes that Maialino “hits its high ground with meat entrees, which at my tables were stripped to the last morsel like buffalo by army ants.”
Sifton also has time to file on Xi’an Famous Foods‘ new Chinatown outpost, where the food is “really good,” and the new Upper East Side Mexican MXco, which he deems “not quite uninspired. It isn’t dazzling.”
Jay Cheshes is quite taken with the “procession of animal fat” at The Breslin, which “breaks new gluttonous ground.”
Alan Richman falls for Brooklyn Kitchen, where “the chef is there, cooking front and center, at the same oversized table where you sit.”
Gael Greene also hits up Maialino, with Gail Simmons in tow, where she finds hits and misses, although the kitchen is “definitely sharper” than when it first opened.
Tables for Two sits down at Fort Defiance, where “the grub is just good enough to keep the locals happily in their cups.”