Fried soba noodles make the coziest bar snack at Katsuhama 55.
This week, Counter Culture slithers up the stairs to the second-floor redoubt of Katsuhama 55, the bigger and grander West 55th Street offspring of Katsuhama on East 47th Street.
The mammouth Berkshire heirloom pork tenderloin, breaded and fried to perfection.
The specialty of both the old and new places is a wondrous fried pork cutlet, available in a near-fatless version (“tenderloin”) or in a fattier version (“loin”). The cutlets come with a haystack of shredded cabbage with dark brown dressing, a smear of mustard, and for $2 more, rice and a small salad, all for less than $20.
Katsudon makes a gloppier and cheaper alternative to the naked pork cutlet.
Braised eggplant is a very delicate dish, one of many new small plates…
And grilled tongue is another notable bar snack.