This week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema samples an array of vegetarian southern Indian, including Jain and Swaminarayan food, at Sapthagiri in Jersey City. Sarah DiGregorio makes a couple of meals out of the Italian-American bites at Torrisi Italian Specialties and the Spanish tapas at Despana.
Sam Sifton eschews a proper review to round up the best eats in Vancouver, but manages to revisit Aretsky’s Patroon, which he notes is “a little shopworn these days. But it’s nice.”
Sifton also files on A Taste of Shanghai, where he recommends you satisfy your craving (or rather, the “desire pulsing in your stomach”) for braised pork shoulder in brown sauce.
Ryan Sutton is not impressed with the eponymous dish at Maialino: “the pig’s skin was so jaw-breakingly overcooked it could have passed for a Depression-era football.”
Steve Cuozzo finds “Soul-satisfying coq au vin and duck confit” at La Mangeoire, and a “many-layered, many-splendored affair” in the lasagna at Mia Dona.
The Underground Gourmet has a meal at locavorist Eat, where there’s “no printed menus, no small-plate business plan, no Pat La Frieda burgers, no cocktail program.” Just “low-impact,” often veggie fare.
Jay Cheshes deems the ever changing menu at Roman makes it “the perfect neighborhood restaurant…for ADD diners.”
Alan Richman rides the L train to Roberta’s, where “the food isn’t highbrow, nor is it unsophisticated. It consists of a little of everything.”
Gael Greene is surprised to find “a star chef actually cooking!” at Colicchio & Sons, where the menu is hit and miss for now.
Tables for Two finds that the famed imported secret sauce that comes with the steak frites at Le Relais de Venise L’Entrecote “overwhelms the meat.”