When Nate Appleman finally fires up the ovens at Pulino, he will not be using them to make Neopolitan-style pizza.
The chef tells Slice that he’s not wading into the Neopolitan fray because he’s tired of their soggy crusts and, besides, he wants to do something different. “Different” in this case will mean a crust that’s “thin and crisp, but not chewy. It’s not like a cracker, but it almost shatters when you bite into it. But it’s not tough like a cracker.” Appleman, who worked on the crust with the bakers from Balthazar, also told the site that his restaurant will probably be opening in a mere three weeks’ time, and will employ a gas oven with a wood assist.