Fork in the Road has spared you from the avalanche of “news” on aphrodisiac cocktails, sickly chocolates, heart-shaped-everything, and free-Champagne specials. Andrew Knowlton is right: The only thing Valentine’s Day is good for is to stay home and roast a chicken, preferably with someone you don’t hate.
But on a recent night at Beer Table, a certain beer presented itself as, well, suitable for that pink-and-red holiday coming up, if you’re into that sort of thing.
Goose Island’s Night Stalker is an imperial stout that’s named after the ’70s detective show set in Chicago. (Goose Island is brewed in the same city.) At Beer Table, a dainty wine-glass-full costs $8–but you don’t really want more than that, because who feels frisky after a belly-filing pint or two? Plus, it’s heavy on the booze at nearly 12 percent alcohol.
The stout is nearly black, with a caramel-colored head. It’s velvety, tasting mellow and dark, like chocolate and espresso, finishing with a sweet burn from all that alcohol. But the stout is also aggressively dry-hopped, lending brightness that saves it from being syrupy. It’s like a box of chocolates, but with the advantage of a buzz.
Night Stalker is on tap at Beer Table until it runs out.
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