Discussed: Carlos Miele, Jill Stuart
Carlos Miele is on the chain gang this season; he’s one of many designers this season to favor link-metal accents in unexpected places. This morning, in the Bryant Park Promenade, the Brazilian label trotted out its usual discordance of ideas; looks progressed rapidly from high-waisted black drawstring trousers to tight electric blue minidresses, then to variegated red and white shifts and a voluminous calf-length fur vest. The only continuity were the bright gold and black chain accents prominently stitched throughout–well, that and America’s Next Top Model judge Nigel Barker. You can’t swing a bejeweled fist at Fashion Week without hitting that guy.
Case in point: An hour later, we spotted Barker at Astor Hall in the New York Public Library–not to pay late fees on Anna Karenina, but to attend the Jill Stuart show. Gossip Girl actress Michelle Trachtenberg and astoundingly buff Real Housewife of the Ninth Circle Kelly Bensimon were also on hand for Stuart’s surprising transformation; last season, she offered jewel-hued satin dresses and white ethereal tops, but today went gung-ho with military infusion merchandised with crazy constable hats. The hard edge is much appreciated after such recent sweet-sixteen couture; highlights included a moss-green multipocketed jumper, a short lace dress patched in camouflage cotton, and a deep plum cable-knit dress with dramatic finned shoulders. Her show was a bit rough around the edges–the music cut out determinedly and one model strutted for her dinner oblivious to the plastic bag scrap trailing from her stiletto boot–but the presentation was absolutely an improvement. Now just get a few more non-Caucasian models on the catwalk, Jill, and we’ll be copacetic.