Discussed: United Bamboo, Rag & Bone, Zero+Maria Cornejo
Ladies, this fall, it’s time to book that trip to Greenland! Or climb Mount Everest! Or fly around the world solo! Yes, more than a few designers are preparing us for thrilling adventure (think Amelia Earhart), with masculine-feminine looks you can proudly conquer the world in. Take, for instance, Miho Aoki and Thuy Pham of United Bamboo: The duo, which never has a collection without big
girly bows attached, showed more than a few tomboy-inspired pieces over the weekend at the Altman.
The show’s program boldly declared, “We are putting menswear
fabrics onto women who know how to wear the pants.” Models strutted down the
runway, to music by James Iha, in wool aviator jackets paired with adorable sailor skirts, beautifully
tailored jackets over tuxedo pants,
and trench coats on top of flexible metallic jodhpur pants (for when you need to make a speedy-but-stylish getaway on horseback, perhaps?).
Over at Rag & Bone, New York-based Brits
David Neville and Marcus
Wainwright took inspiration from
the climbers who tackled Mount Everest in tweed in the 1920s. In a Soho loft on
Mercer Street, Anna Wintour
(sans her trademark sunglasses) and her daughter Bee Shaffer sat in the front row to watch a parade of models
decked out in rugged plaids, adorable kilts, cashmere legwarmers, and so many layers (jackets on top of jackets, scarves on top of scarves, ponchos and sweaters piled on and tied around the waist) you had to wonder if they were preparing you for Mount Everest or Antarctica.
Maria Cornejo, who
always has her eye on designing elegant clothes that are also strong and
practical (last fall she made a stir when she called the trend for sky-high
heels “abusive”), presented another stunning collection on Monday morning. At the intimate Hosfelt Gallery
in the Garment District, Cornejo showed tailored boy blazers in pressed lacquer and tough leather jackets (she calls it “road leather”) accented with alpaca. Her prized leather accessories included hip belts that crossed in front to make an “X” and leather shoulder and chest pieces, apparently for women who fancy themselves not only as adventurers, but also as warriors.