Reviews of the Meatball Shop are rolling in, with both the Times and Serious Eats offering their opinions on New York’s latest assiduously compartmentalized restaurant. The Post has chimed in with its own round-up of the city’s best balls.
The national media seems to have balls on the brain, too, but is tailoring its coverage more to the home cook: The Atlantic Food Channel today published an essay (and accompanying recipe) about the challenges of making a healthy turkey meatball. And yesterday the AP gave us a two-part meatball package that covered the meatball’s history and international manifestations (the Danes call them “frikadeller,” while the Brits, true to their semantic quirks, prefer “faggots”), and offered a primer for making meatballs at home. The Meatball Shop’s Daniel Holzman is quoted, as is Little Owl’s Joey Campanaro, who recommends using water to attain meatball perfection. “The mixture should be wetter than you imagined,” he says — which is something of a relief, considering that where meatballs are concerned, there’s now almost nothing left to the imagination.