This morning, Vanessa’s Dumpling House displayed a golden-brown, hub-cap-sized sesame pancake on its counter.
For $1.50, cheaper than a single subway ride, that pancake can be cut into a generous wedge and filled with sliced cucumber, vinegar, and a fried egg. For the money, a better breakfast sandwich does not exist.
The pancake is resolutely crisp on the bottom. The floppy triangle is not greasy the way some scallion or sesame pancakes can be, instead it’s rich, chewy, and eminently portable, with a thick veneer of crunchy-nutty sesame seeds. Don’t forget to squirt in some hot sauce.
You can also have your pancake filled with substantial quantities of roast beef, pork, tuna salad, ham and egg, or Peking duck.
118A Eldridge Street